Highland Railway 7 ton timber wagon - Type L

I think the clear / translucent resins are more brittle as they contain little or no filler. They do require a reduced exposure compared to the opaque resins like the grey etc.

On the above prints, I used the Lychee slicer with the settings that have worked before.

The green resin was used in the Photon, and produced 8 out of 8 perfect prints all the supports came off easily and no clean up required.
Craftsman Grey resin was used on the Mono X, and produced 0 good prints out of 28 prints. Some supports had printed, but no actual model parts.

Now as a test, with the same settings as above on each printer, this time using the Craftsman Grey resin in the Photon, and Clear resin in the Mono X (I don't have enough green resin to fill the vat).

With the following results

Photon

8 failed prints

Mono X

Looks like 24 good prints out of 28. I will try and increase the exposure time by 0.5 seconds - but not just yet.

For the grey resin I will need to adjust the exposure further.

My dilemma, is which resin do I buy next.

I am currently running down my resin stock, before buying in new, hence the use of the clear resin. Unfortunately, the majority of resin I have left is the Eco White resin, which I don't like the clean up, but I have 2 litres left so you will soon see white parts appearing.

Now I like the Craftsman resin, but it doesn't appear on Anycubics website, they do have a flexible tough resin which may be worth a look.

Paul

 

Hi Andy

I personally don't like the clean up process with the Eco water soluble resin. It contaminates my IPA, makes the wash n cure wash tank feel greasy, and I have more difficulties in getting rid of the contaminated rinse water - the IPA at least evaporates, or in my case I distil the IPA from the highly contaminated IPA wash solution. I get some clean IPA back for re-use, and a layer of plastic moon rock type of substance that gets cured and can be safely disposed.

I will use up my normal resin, then blitz the ECO resin.

Paul

 

A little more progress

The W irons were broken free of the supports - a few had damage to the prints giving 14 usable W irons. I will need to modify the supports as well as the cure time for the Mono X version.

Then the holes for the bearing cups were opened out using broaches

I inserted a bamboo bbq skewer into to each hole to hold the W iron for spraying. Vallejo Grey primer followed by Premium black applied to the W irons, then the bearings inserted

W irons were then added to the body

as they copy and repeat

Next up buffers and brakes.

Note to self - next time fit buffer bodies before fitting W irons as the W irons get in the way.

Brake gear painted and ready for fitting.

Paul

 

Build process same as the previous models, so now I have a que for the paint shop

The closest wagon has the 3D printed wheels, the other 3 have the Parkside (re badged Peco O gauge) wheels.

I had given the Green resin printed wagons a slight dusting of primer so that I could see the rivet detail to help align the W irons.

Paul

 

A few things happening at home have slowed progress, but finally got chance to spray some paint

Primer first, to help keep the paint out of the top hat bearings as mentioned earlier I prepainted the W irons and brake assemblies.
Then added some paper shields (actually sticky label) with a cut out to accomodate the shaft. Then sprayed with Vallejo Grey primer neat from the bottle

Next up vallejo Premium Black - again straight from the bottle

As can be seen no masking was used - and evidently displays my spraying skills (more like lack of)

Tamiya Woodern Deck Tan - diluted 50:50 with Tamiya X20 thinner was applied to the inside - approx 3 to 4 thin coats.

And finally Vallejo Deep red - this had to be thinned roughly 50:50 with Vellejo airbrush thinner. Again 4 thin coats.

Oh and I was paint all four wagons at the same time

The over spray of the black now provides a very small amount of pre-shading to the lower edge.

Once these have hardened a bit it's down to brush painting the Iron work.

Hopefully the rake of 5 should be ready soon.

Paul

 

Finally done a little further progress on these.

Hand painted the ironwork, and applied Vallejo gloss varnish.

Next job is to apply the transfers, I will try Microset and Microsol - fingers crossed. Giving the varnish 24hrs to harden.

Paul

 

Seemingly in later years a more Burnt Sienna colour was used, with a dark green / bark olive green for NPCS.

But the colour will fade drastically under the weathering process

Paul

 

Well the Microset / Microsol worked, but boy are these transfers delicate

According to the drawings I should be using the smaller HR letters, but a great line from the HMRS - The Highland ofter applied the letter sizes indiscriminately ... YES

Variety is the spice of life - I know Toto prefers a Hot Madras and Gary a Southern Chilli Chicken (even hotter), but I'll stick with the transfer for the mo.

So while waiting for the transfers to dry between coats of Microsol, I started work on the rope tie downs.
A while ago I purchased Jewelry Makers open end pins, so time to put them to use.

The 2mm dia loop was bent through 90 degrees.

Then primed with Vallejo Grey primer followed by matt black

Also shown is the embroidery thread I will use as rope.

Once these have hardened up I will number them (I need to dry brush the number plates to make sure I apply the correct numbers).

Paul

 

Not much progress on these, until this week.

A few modifications to the model

Axle boxes - I liked Mossey's Rectangular recess in the rear which allows height adjustment



made slightly narrower than the original hole diameter, this will allow the original alignment, but with a slight filing of the boss on the W iron the axle box height can be adjusted to suit.

Also added lettering



I increased the size of the hole for coupling hook - as it required a bit of fettling to get the hook in.

and the next one was I discovered the Derive tool.

And what is the use of this ... well ............

This allows me to export a part from one progect to another, and the kicker, If I change the original part the derived part in the project will warn you that the part has been changed ....... so what I hear you say, I can import the bit as required. Here is my example that gave me that moment

I had been printing the number plates seperately, but were a bit of a pain to get to stay in the correct position when glueing in place, and also tended to break easily when trying to remove the supports.

By combing all the bodies of the number plate into one model - in this case all the numbers & letters, bolt heads and plate - to create one body



Select all the bodies and combine



We now only have one body - this makes the derive and update process later easier.

Now select the Derive option from the Create dropdown and the DERIVE menu box will appear



The default destination is New Design, I changed this to existing Design - more on this in a mo...

Click on the Body(s) you want to Derive - they will appear in the list, in this case Nameplate

Click OK

Because I selected Existing Design the Select Target Requestor appears



select the project - HR Wagons \ HR 7 ton Type L timber wagon

Now move to the destination project

In the bodies list will have appeared the derived part



Note the arrow indicating it is a derived part.

Now move the part to where you want it - in my case on the wagon side



I required, a second plate for the other side, just like any other body, just copy and move it into position

 

Now the juicy bit, if I update the number to say 923 on the number plate and (the important bit) save the design




Moving back to the wagon design or when you next open the design, you get a warning popup - couldn't screen grab it in time, and warnings in the top left of the Fusion screen



Clicking on the yellow warning in the top bar will update the drived body



All in the right place with no adjustments required.

Just export as an .stl file and were off.



Load into Chitubox, and print



Now for the new Mono X the print times are 20s for the base layers, 2.4s for main exposure and the UV power at 80%, print time 5h50m
My original Mono X the printimes are 40s for the base layers, 3.3s for the main exposure, first test done at 80% UV power, but got several artifacts on the fep, second test carried out with the same settings but the UV power dropped to 50%. Both prints gave nice results, so I will stick the 50% UV setting. Whenever I have tried to reduce the exposure time on this printer I get fails. Time to print 7h6m - 1h16m longer that the newer printer.

I would say with the new printer the build plate has an etched checkerboard pattern on the surface

Right hand plate

Boy is this build plate good - when I did the RERF (exposure test) for both printers - same RERF file and fresh resin for both printers.

Bottom layer exposure was 45 sec, and the test pieces were exposed at 0.8, 1.2, 1.6, 2.0, 2.4, 2.8 & 3.2 seconds.

Look at the bottom left print on the righthand build plate, trying to remove the print, it welded that well on to the build plate I had to destroy them to get them off.
20s is still hard to remove the print, but is doable.

The exposure on the new printer was about the same for 2.0 and 2.4 so I settled on 2.2, for the original printer 2.4 to 2.8 looked good, so 2.6 was selected.

However when printing the models on the newer mono X I noticed some layer separation within the rafts, and failed supports on the heavy & light supports, strangely the mediums were ok. So I upped the exposure to 2.4s and all is good.

Unfortunately I now have different profiles for the two printers.

On the original mono X I was getting a lot of artifacts forming accross the fep. Look at the left hand plate bottom right test piece, you can see a piece that has broken off and is embedded into part. So have done a test print with my normal profile 40s bottom layers, 3.3s normal layers with the UV setting at 80%, and the same again with the UV setting at 50%. Now the few artifacts are in one location which appears to be at an air bubble between the screen and the protective glass layer I fitted, and no despite many attempts I've been able to remove the air bubble.

Paul

 

Hi Chris

The software that is available can produce some impressive designs - probably not by me tho', but i'm working on it. However the 3D printer is a game changer, up to a certain size that is, it allows me to produce items that I wouldn't have the skill or time to do, and would normally have to compromise and make or buy something near enough. Then I can make multiple prints so that long train of unique wagons is now possible.

The initial outlay is relatively high - although my second Photon and Mono X were approx half the price of the first one , they are now showing thier worth, I like the limitation of only being able to print a few at a time, as any more than 6 to build at once seems like a full time job rather than a hobby. Buying the kits for half a dozen O gauge wagon kits would set me back over £300 so the outlay is easier to justify to the boss, just think how much I'd have saved if I ever finish 6 wagons .

Paul

 

Hi Mossy

Not much has changed, I'm ready to glue up the original single shoe brakes, but will try out the new ones you sent before doing so.

Got some grey paint in so that should take care of the final finish, lettering i'll worry about later.

Hopefully some progress over the weekend as rain is forecast for Saturday , but another heat wave starting from Sunday

Paul

 

Cheers Mossy

You never know, if the Bosses activities allow there may be progress today, she has a zoom seated activity session after lunch, then hopefully she'll be doing more seated activity and watching Wimbledon, however I may get a call to do some work at the model railway club this afternoon.

Paul

 

Well at least the NER transfers are on order.

When at the Perth Model Raiway show at the weekend, I also picked up some HR transfers so should be good for a few wagons now.

Paul