Highland Railway 7 ton timber wagon - Type L

Hi Mossy

Actually, I love the checker plate surface, the adhesion is amazing. On my first Mono X with the smooth plate I've had issues with the layers sticking to the plate hence the 40s exposure time and 8 layers.

Results from the 3 base layers.

Parts nailed in place, and still difficult to remove - suppose trying to reduce the exposure time for the base layers should be the next tests.

Elephants foot reduced, interestingly the small holes for the horse connectors printed fine, but the buffer hols are flattened.

Left hand body is the 3 base layer version , the right hand with the roof dropped on is the original print with 5 base layers and not touching the build plate.

And a closeup of the 3 layer version

So test number 3 - still printed horizontal but with supports



estimated 3.5 hours, so hopefully will be ready waiting for me when I get up.

Paul

 

Ok the supported version wins out

Auto supports used - Medium supports with a support density of 70%. The supports for the upper parts were removed as the unsupported prints didn't appear to need them.

Additional heavy supports were added at corners and various places along the sole bars and head stocks.

Z lift from the base to the model was 8mm to give the supports chance to form.

Print time increased by over half an hour.

Paul

 

Cheers Mossy - 2.5 bottles left then I'm on to the Beige (4 bottles). Need to keep an eye on Anycubics site, for the return of the Bogoff offers, especially if I'm having to test other resins. I did notice the Eco packaging 1.5 litre bags, but the saving is not that great, and not sure if the Buy 2 get one free offer applies. Hopefully my current stock of resing will last a wee while, especially as the UK is not listed as a delivery destination, so we come under "other" with a higher price tag.

Paul

 

Hi Guys

I have tried them, with varied levels of success - actually normally quite binary, either complete success or total fail, and varies between my printers.

A tip I picked up from Mossy and Andy was to put the prints into hot water for a few mins prior to removing the supports.

I'll need to create another .stl file with a different running number, and try a light support print. Don't want to make too many more as I think I will have 10% of the vans made by the Highland Railway - they preferred 8 ton open wagons.

I've heard many a horror story of sealed box models having issues, so to avoid any issues hear is my solution

The center support on the chassis is not full height, the floor is supported only by the solebars and headstocks so there is a gap

I intend to drill a couple of holes in the floor above the cross beam so they won't be seen, and modify the the original to reflect the change.

Paul

 

Now now, I only have 2.5 litres of the stuff left, which means I've used over 5.5 litres of the stuff, no wonder it feels like the worlds turned orange. Grey primer quickly cures the orangeness.

Beige is the next lot, only 4 litres of that stuff. I keep checking for another Bogof deal, but at the mo its buy 2 get 1 free, and not in the craftsman resin.

For printing and supports I apply a 0.2mm fillet to the bottom edgesa, this causes the supports to be moved slightly in from the edge, preserving the square corners.

Models printed parallel to the base plate Medium supports, with additional Heavies at the corners and every 5 to 10 mm.

Models printed at an angle - again the 0.2mm fillet then

Light supports for the bottom edge (lots of them - every couple of mm) then mediums, and several heavies to help secure the print - as above corners, extra on the lower section.

Paul

 

Now this may take a few posts - there may even be the treat of a finished model - heaven forbid

Before I bore you with pics etc, a word on wheels, the build photo's you're about to be hit with have used a set of Slaters 3'7" Mansell Disc (Ref: 7124), I had ordered up some 3'7" Plain disc wheels from Model Railway Parts (MRP) by Peartree Engineering. But due to delays caused by the Postal strikes and impatience getting the better of me I pinched the Slaters wheels from another project.

So what I hear you say, well ...... the Slaters wheels are the usual 1/8th axle, steel tyres and plastic centers. Whereas the MRP ones have a 4.6mm axle, turned steel wheels and insulated bushes between the axle and wheels. The difference is the MRP wheels ae over 30 grams heavier than the Slaters wheels - almost the amount of weight I will need to add to the finished wagon.

Back to the story ........

First up - prepping the W irons

The holes need enlarging to suit the outer diameter of the bearing, I'd like to quote a size, but each manufacturer seems to have there own sizes, nominally 2.5mm but I've measured 2.4, 2.5, 2.6 and 3.0 mm. I used a rat tail jewelers file, and slowly worked in from both sides of the hole until the bearing would insert, but not loose.

Next the floor needed fettling to fit inside the body - caused primarily from printing direct on the build plate, on the plus side it is flat.

I did add alignment marks to make sure I kept fitting the floor the same way round -

Kept adjusting until it fitted without gaps

A bead of super glue was applied to the upper surface of the sole bars and headstocks, and a 123 block used to keep the floor in place.

Back in a min - I'm up to the photo limit for thr post

Paul

 

I'm back

The W irons were glued in place using the locating lugs for guidance.

With the bearing pushed as far out as possible, the W irons can be eased open to allow the wheels to be fitted - this did cause a wee flutter, as trying to get the W irons to stay in place with the wheels in place was a nightmare, especially when you're using super glue.

Now on to the Leaf springs - only the bases were glued in place

The axle boxes were added next, with the spring not being glued it was possible to flex it to fit the axle box in place.

and there's more

 

the home stretch .......

Time to apply the brakes - sorry Brake - only one, it's a bit like the Highlander Movie - there can only be One

See that gap between the middle cross beam was for a reason - the bake assembly just slides underneath - ok I was lucky

Aligned up and glued in place

The pivot block was added, and the brake lever checked for fit.

Brake J hanger added, and the whole lot secured in place.

Now the more observant may have spotted a couple of small holes in the sole bar

These are for attaching the ropes for horse shunting, and were drilled out to 0.6mm, then 0.7mm wire, bent

and then inserted into the hole

The buffers have been installed - well the bases have, the heads are loose until after paint.

Gauge O Guild recommend 1g per mm length for the weight of the wagon, over the buffers the van is approx 135mm long, the actual weith is 96g without paint, so 40g light.
Back to the observation at the start regarding wheel weight, the second wagon that has the MRP wheels fitted and only has the body, floor, W irons and roof weighs in at 130g.

Taking the boss & daughter to the pictures tonight, so paint will need to for a day or two (I hope)

Paul