Highland Railway 7 ton timber wagon - Type L

Now this is a cruel close up



The lines highlighted are where the pull force from the vacuum are causing a distortion, looks like once the vacuum area is greater than 16mm.
The inner face shows no distortion. The distortion measures 0.1 mm at the peak, so looks far worse than it measures.
Just adding the two holes got rid of the distortion entirely.

Regarging the print angle, there are many theories and from what I can gather boils down to this.

To print at 45 degrees in one or two directions to avoid the stepping effect the layer height and XY resolution (dependant on screen) should be equal - or divisable

For my Mono X 4K - the following is taken from the data sheet.
● XY Res.: 0.050mm 3840*2400（4K）

Whoopeeeeeee for me it's simples the XY Res.: 0.050mm and layer height set to 0.05mm thus 1:1 nae problem, however if printing at lower resolutions I should use a layer height of 0.025 and not 0.020 to avoid stepping lines.

However for my Original Photon

● XY DPI : 47um (2560*1440)

So printing at 45 degrees I should change my layer height to 0.047mm, and 0.0235 for finer detailing

Looks like I will need to do a couple of test prints, well maybe.

Paul

 

Been intouch with Anycubic, my first Mono X touch screen has become un-responsive. Probably from me getting resin or contaminated IPA from my gloves on to the screen.

I did check the Anycubic website for replacement parts, but the touch screen is not listed. Also checked chitusystems site, they do have a 3.5" touch screen available but states not suitable for Original Mono X

I must admit the Anycubic Contact Us link was very quick to respond, asked for further info to identify my printer. Then sent me a link to purchase a new touch screen $42 or approx £37 inc p&p.

Talking of the chitusystems site - they offer a mono screen conversion for the Original Photon approx £50, and includes the Mono screen, new controller board and mask to fit on the base to accomodate the slightly bigger screen. Boy am I tempted. a 3x print speed increase .............. maybe soon.

Paul

 

A wee bit of tweaking and I now have working buffers - now how resilliantthese will be I don't know.

I made my buffer head and shanks hollow, by adding brass rod as a shaft, printing a rear stop and using a piece of guitar wire as a spring (top E - 0.2mm / 11 gauge)

The stop was created in Fusion 360



The hole for the wire was created at 0.5mm dia, which when printed was a great fit for the 0.2mm steel wire.

Paul

 

Hi Mossy, I'm using Big Jim's method as well, initially I intended using Peco 3 link couplings for the hook, but have bought some Dingham Auto-couplers from the Gauge O Guild.

I'm not to sure how well a 3D printed hook would survive in use. Maybe give it a go with ABS like resin.

Just got to draw the hook - this'll be fun.

Andy, you'll do the buffers without issue.

Paul

 

Now my last order of resin was the ABS like resin, to test.

For printing of large flat bodies, I found it not as good as the Craftsman resin, you can see the layer lines. However, for printing smaller parts that could be handled the results are far more resiliant. For example, my leaf springs and w irons, on the craftsman resin the parts have to be cut from the supports, with the ABS like resin the parts just break away by hand from the supports. Even after curing or been left for a week or two (I was busy and forgot about them).

As the ultimate test I have printed the coupling hooks with the ABS like resin.

Print finished , just allowing the resin to drain from the print before cleaning and curing tomorrow.

Paul

 

nuts, and I'll say it again NUTS!

I got it wrong on the 8 ton Open wagon

I made my model with the solebars flush with the sides - easy mistake as the drawing doesn't have a cross section and I couldn't find a photograph of the wagon
Posting on the HRSoc chat group, my worse fears were confirmed and the solebars were inset by 6 inches per side.
Much cussing later ........



Test prints started, then I remembered how cold it's supposed to get tonight, well fingers crossed, if all is ok then another test build, and a shed load of previous version test builds heading for the bin.

Paul

 

On the plus side the prints turned out ok

Now just got to do a test build to make sure all the other parts still fit.

Paul

 

Waiting for paint

Was going to paint this wagon and the luggagevan, but youtube got in the way, maybe later

Paul

 

Well the paint has dried

Type A 8 ton Open goods wagon

Type S 8 ton Luggage Van

Both need Letters & Numbering and then weathering

Paul

 

Oh and weight adding - hence the roof not being stuck down on the van

Paul

 

Hi Mossy

The Gauge O guild has a rule of thumb of 1g per mm.
For my 9ft wheelbase wagons, I'm aiming for arround 135g, and will be mainly achieved by using steel nuts - readily available and quite cheap from the likes of Toolstation / Screwfix.

Paul