Yeah, they ran out of that, and I had to up market and get the £15 stuff - I've been living north o the border too long its rubbing off Paul
This really is a prototype..I’ve not attempted to print it yet... do I take it you have already on the resin printer? When I did the first signal box, I made it like an airfix kit. 4 sides and the internal floor dropped in after on lugs. I can do a redesign if that helps for either printer?
All needed a few changes to print with resin. The main issues I had was with the base unit, 3 attempts Attempt 1 print direct to base plate, it detached part way through the print. Attempt 2 Got up to the upper floor but the weight of resin pulled the print off the base Attempt 3 printed at 30 degree angle, print successful, but supports caused issues - the angle allowed most of the resin to drain from above the floor. I will post pics. Suggested fixes. Print the upper floor as a separate item. Did the prototype have skirting boards, as you could model these, and use them to locate the floor from below. The floor could have the detailing added as well. All the models were moved 5mm off the base to allow for rafts and supports. The steps were angled lower to keep the amount of supports to a minimum The results are impressive - beautiful model The roof section, again a lovely model - the clear resin makes things not look right. The roof is smooth, the apparent marks you can see are the supports on the underside. It is also still flexible, so although not perfectly flat, will easily glue on to the window section. The window section - again will post pics later, was printed upside down, and will increase the height from the base for the next print, as I damaged part of the gutter removing the print from the base plate. They are all really nice models, the detailing is impressive On the base unit maybe best printing the windows seperately, they came out great on the verticle builds but on the angled builds the supports knocked the hell out of them. With the Anycubic Photon, you are at the limit in OO, in O you will need to split the model into smaller parts. Hopefully I will be able to post the other pics - warts n all - tomorrow. Paul
I suggested to Andy some time ago that making the O Gauge version a multi part construction kit would make the range more attractive, it was only the Shapeway's pricing which prevented this from happening.
Andy you are quite wrong about the DLP being solid you caan make them hollow as in this Scammel and the class 24 roof I made. Be seeing you Bob
Bob, I was referring to the infill not the actual model being solid, sorry for any confusion. Cracking Scammel. What scale is that?
The first Elton was actually made in parts if you recall. Four lower walls, four upper walls, 3 roof parts (the inner and two outer) but my down fall came at the stairs when I had each step printed. That was a bitch to stick together. Shapeways wanted so much for the first kit like that that I actually stuck it all back together Andy made it as the bottom and top half’s with the floor in situ. Lift off roof, well you know the rest you had the model in O. The lever frame may be revisited and made in sections without the loose levers. Had a guy in Aus want one in 3.5mm last year but he struggled. So he’s had a 4mm built up in sets of 16
Oh yes the revisited Elton signal box sits pride of place on a layout funnily enough called Elton Crossing. Now pencil in when the time is right I want an O Gauge Blythe Bridge signal box kit please... but not from Shapeway because I'd sooner buy here with our Forum's members investment instead. Shapeway has priced themselves out of the marketplace as far as I'm concerned and what I've seen so far considerably better quality items are being tested here with better print results and finish... that's where my money will go these days... keeping it "in house" as they say
What you think @paul_l ? If I break the design down a bit, can your printer cope with an O gauge Blythe Bridge? That’s the stumbling point... bed side I’m guessing.
Started the FDM print just before 1 (am), 16% completed at 6am, and at 19:00 The window section Failed base prints and the bits placed together It will be interesting to see the FDM print of the base, print time is a bit restrictive, then again the resin printer took 10 hrs. Paul
I’m envious of that FDM print... makes mine look utter rubbish! Looks good and most grateful for you testing it out.
It certainly is Bob, and Andy referring to Blythe Bridge is just there to disturb my O gauge mojo, as you had a great view of the Signal box when seated in Cyril's chair (the Barber shop). Well the CTC print has completed, I did try the print with faster print settings 40 / 60 mm per sec, but the filamnet didn't stick to the bed, so back to 20 / 40 mm per sec. So all settings were the same as the cab roof prints, except no supports and printed vertical. Extruder temp 220c Bed temp 70c Take the temps with a pinch of salt - no way is the bed actually at 70c, thats just the setting that the controller thinks its at really helpful !! Number of outer layers = 2 Infill = 30% - not really of any use in these models - with a 0.4 nozzle = 0.8mm for each surface or 1.6mm in total which is almost the same as the wall thickness Andy has created No supports No rafts The result was ..... Yep 26h26m Now to compare with the Resin prints. The surface feels a little rough, so I will try sanding a little later. It does suffer from a rounding of the bricks especially on the enders - remember these are 4 mm scale bricks. Now the poser - printing the base on FDM in O gauge would easily fit on the FDM bed - I would need to check the height for my printer. The bigger bricks would be less prone to rounding, and at a 0.8 mm layer height may bring the print time down to around the same as the 0.4 mm layer print in OO. Also remove the floor - just print a support for the floor, and corner strengtheners at the bottom and where the floor will drop in. I would tend to print the windows as separate items later glued in place - the FDM could make a good job of these if printed flat on the bed. These are excellent 3D models, just wish I was as good, and being great to have a go at working such detailed models from both Andy and Steve. Although the resin prints of the base failed - I will correct this the detail is amazing I will put some paint on these to show how they come out. Paul
I shouldn't worry too much about the failed base print that can be disguised, what you have done looks great from the pictures. Now Dundee don't you recall all the rubbish piled up around the old gates box at Blythe Bridge? I seem to remember heaps of discarded DS1 and AR40 dry cells that Malcolm Hewitt left outside whenever he had to replace block shelf indicator and repeater TPR relay feeds located in the locking room... not to mention all those empty baked beans tins that Walter Serrill used to throw out of the cabin windows on a noon shift.
@paul_l wow... that’s fantastic! And thank you for the compliment. I will have a look at some mods, such as the windows (which are a separate file anyway so should be easy. I take it you mean the brick work windows and not the cabin ones? Out of interest, how good is the fitment of the other parts? There should be slots but I’m conscious that by mixing different construction processes that the actual spacing may vary by a few tenths of a MM. Which may need some sanding/filing for fitting. I look forward to seeing a painted version... Andy
I really wish I had the nerve (and the expertise) to have a go at this sort of thing, but the thought of programming and CAD/CAM fills me with dread! I certainly do admire those with the understanding of all this, and I'd need to be a lot cleverer than I am to be able to tackle this stuff. I'm aware that there are already lots of designs on file and available to use, but I'd personally be more interested in 'bespoke' items like the bodies of as yet unavailable classes of loco. What few 'skills' I possess are in my hands rather than between my ears! Keith.
Keith, I’m self taught over 3 years. You can but have a go. I’ve not tackled locos as you have the added issue of trying to get it to fit a chassis already made, or even worse, designing your own, so i leave that to gents like Mr Beattie with his kits (ok so they are diesels) If you search on Shapeways, there are a number of loco bodies on there. Even the NSR battery loco from Oakamoor sidings!
Andy I definitely want to purchase an O gauge one mate I've a few ideas I'd like to run by you ... it would be good to hear your thoughts at some point.