3D model tweaking

Having seen the Shapeways models and then your resin one, i much prefer those finished over the FDM.

The resin model has a nice finish...

What could I do to the O gauge one to make it print quicker? I’m not really a fan of too many parts, that’s why the idea behind these was “paint and plant” rather than build... but if that’s the route I need to go down for the larger kits... well, i’ll have to change my modus operandi...

I wonder what my O gauge Consall would look like as that has a detailed interior. (Booking office internal panelling) (don’t worry I’m thinking out loud)

 

The way forward with these kits (O Gauge) would be to make an investment mould in which the inner core supported by a Plaster of Paris jacket was made using artists Gellflex, this medium could be reused again and again and of course multiple moulds could be made so several units of the same pattern could be poured at the same time. Small amounts of Gellflex can be cut into cubes and heated on a primus stove, for big stuff a Gellflex pot heater is best. All very simple stuff to do but the result if done properly is outstanding quality.

 

Gellflex is more expensive because it doesn't loose definition if you need to use the mold more than a few times... I've used Gellflex molds when pouring UV clear casting resin which creates an isothermic response when curing, the Gellflex was able to withstand that punishment without giving me a casting failure. Not saying Vinamold won't work for you Timbersurf but if you want to make more than eight or nine casts from the same mold then prepare to mix and match quality.

 

To be honest, I was a little disappointed that we were needing to look at going down the casting route of moulds. That’s not what I set out to do. I’m still reluctant, but not dismissive, so.....

I’ve spent the last hour with the O gauge box spliting it down in to panels, lower front/back etc Upper front- you get the picture. Floor , internal roof, porch.

I’m a little unsure what to suggest re the roof.

Anyway, I’ll post some photos in a while to explain more what route I’m trying to help you guys go down. As I say, it may not be what I wanted to do, but I have to not be closed minded and listen to others. (To be fair I’ve been listening to Paul B since I started these dam signal boxes and he’s been good with me for ideas and info, so going once more with a suggestion can’t do any harm.. right?

 

OK, so I've used a bit of colour to show the panels up (all the base ones are the same colour, but four separate sides- I just didn't think they needed colouring.

You will note that I have now made the door a separate item from the porch in to the box so it can be posed open or closed. there is an issue re structure strength if I were to do it with the outside porch door. - there are also one or two thin areas that I'm a little concerned over, so until there is a test, we wont know if I've got it right or wrong. windows also separate that slot in at the rear to a set depth. small mod to the cabin roof internally and externally and both the OO and O had the lip beefed up. I don't think this should be an issue in O, but can be printed from the flat top side. 16 parts in total instead of the original 5.

andy

 

Wonderful stuff Andy and I do like the different colour schemes on display... ranging from early NSR Duck Egg Blue, LMS Middle Brunswick Green and Light Buff for country stations right through to BR Gulf Red... and just to broaden the range more you've even got Porterbrook Mauve for that modern era setting.

 

Well, like a bit of variation. Doesn’t tie the period down lol

I’m still not convinced this will totally work as if you mould the outside of the upper level, you won’t have the chimney breast and skirt which the floor goes up to.

 

Why won't you have the chimney breast and skirting? Can these items not be made as separates?

Yes Rule One applies paint it whatever colour you wish to which is why when I get to make my NSR New M loco I shall paint it in Corporate Blue with large logos and Stratford silver roof... I might even name it ... something like Stainless Pioneer

 

They could, I was just thinking re the moulding and that the back (inside) surface would be smooth.

This was where the 3D printing bonuses over the old techniques and why I didn’t want to go down this route... but if needs be and it cuts costs we cut details.

Or... we continue with the resin prints, but as there are smaller parts, (but now more) they may print differently. And if one deforms there is less loss.. only one side etc rather than a full top or bottom as Paul L found.

We shall keel thinking and trying. I’m not giving up Paul... but it sometimes gets you down.

 

Did you get the replacement files for Blythe Bridge box?

 

I thought that, but they kind of gloss over the fact that the skin dropped in to a channel where the lip was proud so it then tensioned it.

Quite clever!!