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3D model tweaking

Discussion in '3D Modeling Projects' started by paul_l, Jan 16, 2019.

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  1. Jan 19, 2019 #41
    Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Pm me on here or messenger. I’m not up to much between now and 3 as got kids and wife on nights.
     
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  2. Jan 19, 2019 #42
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    As for fitment

    Getting the cabin on to the base was actually easier with the filatent base, I did however break off one of the timer supports.
    The chimney part on the cabin roof upper part could do with being removed or made flush with the top of the roof. I like the hole as that will be useful for lighting.
    May be worth thickening up the lip on the cabin roof lip - not sure the correct name, maybe even squaring it off as this will give a better gluing surface to attach the roof, and strengthen edge as I broke the edge when removing the print from the build plate, and further damage when fitting the cabin on to the base.



    A little fettling to get the door into the apperture with both the FDM and Resin bases, but nothing too much, as there is an overlap, you could open the aperture by maybe a 1/10 max on each side - I'd rather fun the file a few times than have to fill it though.

    Paul
     
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  3. Jan 19, 2019 #43
    Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Andy.
    I've built a number of the "Silver Fox" and "Golden Arrow Models" loco's, most of which use a 'proprietary' chassis (usually Hornby or Bachmann) and a resin or mostly resin body with some white metal parts, and that's the line of though I was going with, as the "G A" models are mostly Southern region loco's apart from the English Electric "GT3" experimental loco which I built. Almost all of the Southern's express loco's (except the "U" Class I think) are available in RTR from the major manufacturers, but there are a few of the smaller stuff not yet available and that's what got me thinking "Could I create one in 3D print?" In my case, probably not!:giggle:

    Keith.
     
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  4. Jan 19, 2019 #44
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    In O gauge it is too high - just tried it, so would need slit it some where

    upload_2019-1-19_12-9-0.png

    I am making a test print FDM of the first few layers of the base.

    Paul
     
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  5. Jan 19, 2019 #45
    Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Keith, that’s fine if you already have the chassis to take the measurements from. You can work around it. I had a guy wanting me to make some N gauge locos - but he couldn’t understand why I wouldn’t do it when I didn’t have any N gauge chassis to work from.
    :scratchchin::giggle:
     
  6. Jan 19, 2019 #46
    Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Hang fire...

    Im working on it.
    I’m wondering if to split it at the operating floor, saves taking the floor out.

    Just need a way to re locate it.
     
  7. Jan 19, 2019 #47
    Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    May be switch the fascia board from the cabin woodwork to the roof block?

    Printing in a different way in a different material means a rethink.
     
  8. Jan 19, 2019 #48
    York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Great stuff Paul... what with all the cabin damage going on it sounds like you are getting Blythe Bridge crossing ready for an imminent CCTV barrier conversion controlled from Caverswall.:avatar::avatar::avatar: No seriously I'm overly impressed with your levels of experimentation :tophat:
     
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  9. Jan 19, 2019 #49
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Andy

    Just started a test in O, and noticed that it tries to print each brick outer edge, which may explain why I had to use slower speeds.

    Could you add a 0.5mm layer at the bottom edge of the walls, the full thickness of the wall (brick front to back of wall).

    On your CTC do you have a cooler for the parts fitted ?

    Paul
     
  10. Jan 19, 2019 #50
    Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    To cut off? Otherwise it will throw the steps out by .5mm?

    I can do? Yes.
     
  11. Jan 19, 2019 #51
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    If you make the bottom 0.32mm (4 x 0.8mm layers thick) smooth, I don't think anyone would notice, ground cover would hide it.

    Paul
     
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  12. Jan 19, 2019 #52
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Print head part cooler


    O gauge print underway 2% after an hour or so

     
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  13. Jan 19, 2019 #53
    Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    On both or just the O gauge? I’m in the midst of splitting it. Revised Files with you tonight for O gauge.
     
  14. Jan 19, 2019 #54
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Andy

    It would help with both

    Paul
     
  15. Jan 19, 2019 #55
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Latest update from the printer


    O gauge - 0.08mm layer height

    Paul
     
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  16. Jan 19, 2019 #56
    Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    I’m on it.
    EBC36552-91A2-402D-9F66-A7B3B5DB2310.jpeg

    And yes I have a cooling fan on the CTC
     
  17. Jan 19, 2019 #57
    Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Right, O gauge one I’ve split as you can see. The floor of the upper I’ve left in situe but it stands proud of the bricks, so there is an overhang. I can’t find any way around this as the floor, window and door are all on the same row of bricks, one will weaken the arch if I come lower, one will screw the floor and door if I go up one.
    Windows to be recessed.
    Will check re the roof and chimney. Was there a clash in parts (ie I’ve overlapped when drawn?)
     
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  18. Jan 20, 2019 #58
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Stopped the print test after 17h5m





    So a rough guess based on the above new test the body section will take at least 40h to print on FDM :whatever: :(

    To print in resin the walls will need to be individual. This would open up possibilities of using resin or plaster casting.

    Paul
     
  19. Jan 20, 2019 #59
    Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Is it the light or my eyes that make the bricks look like cobbles ??

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  20. Jan 20, 2019 #60
    redpiperbob

    redpiperbob Full Member

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    Hi All I don't want to but in here but have you tried Sketchup to create the files?

    I have used this a lot and can recommend the OOBs add on to create the textured surfaces.

    If you want I can send you a sample file for you to print. The joy of using Sketchup and OOBs is:-

    1 you can create almost any textured surface

    2 you can scale the surface as you please.

    Andy and Paul please get in touch if you want to know more.

    If need be I could do a small tutorial on the file creation in Sketchup.

    Be seeing you

    Bob
     
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