Airfix 14xx 0-4-2t loco

Hi Andy, I have one of these to potentially convert however 4-4-0 and 0-4-4 locos I have converted so far e.g. Tri-ang have always been a problem because unlike the prototype they are very poorly balanced resulting in poor traction and pickup weight.

Even when I bought one of those (Airfix) new when they first came out reliable running was very difficult as power pickup was restricted, I think at least one or two treads have tyres which makes power pickup worse. I only attained decent running on DC by fitting extra power pickups in an attached autocoach.

So as far as DCC is concerned the Airfix version will need extra pickups in an adjacent vehicle to make a usable model, this model rates very low in the "Is it worth it" league, I think DJ models brought one out a few years ago which had no tyres and all wheel pickup but will obviously cost somewhat more.

Jim

 

The two halves of the chassis are isolated from each other. A friend DCC'd his by insulating the motor from the chassis then attached wires to each side of the chassis to the decoder then wires to the motor. It ran dreadfully as did my Airfix version on DC. I replaced the wheels with tyres with ordinary wheels, still hopeless. The DJ version is well worth looking out for. Almost new mint condition versions are fairly easy to obtain because they don’t run well.

 

If I remember correctly there are two tabs under the motor that touch either side of the chassis. They need to be insulated. It was a long time ago so I could be talking rubbish.

Just looked at the service sheet. Think you just need the put insulation tape anywhere the motor touches the chassis.

http://www.lendonsmodelshop.co.uk/pdf/Airfix Locomotive Service Sheets/0-4-2 Tank.pdf

 

Looking at the service sheet Brian shows above.

From the diagram it looks like parts 80095-4 and 80090-9 are the parts that make the electrical connection between wheels and motor.

I would suggest Andy that you insulate those with pieces of paper initially and check with a multi-meter that they do isolate the motor, if so insert something more durable.

But please remember what Brian and I have found, even on DC they are poor runners, on DCC they will be worse.

Jim

 

Well if you get yours running well I would be interested know how before I try and convert mine to DCC running, Jim

 

You could replace the metal screw with a nylon version

 

Need to find out what thread it is from the metal one. I only mentioned it because nylon screws are used to insulate some Ringfield motors when DCCing them.

 

I read that it is a good idea to turn the motor upside down.

Seems to be lots of info on line.

 

I can see why power pickup could be a problem.

Tyres are fitted to the centre axle, which to grip well the chassis may see-saw on that axle, however that means what you gain in grip is at the expense of power pickup, do one set of plungers go to the small non-drivers?

 

I suppose even with tyres the flanges will occasionally touch the rails, seems like a desperate measure or they changed the design from tyreless when without tyres it could not pull anything.

Another option to tapping a hole is to use fine self tapping screws, Jim

 

And sometimes the threads are not quite compatible but the screw thread distorts enough to hold, was the case when I bought some to DCC a Hornby Ringfield mechanism, Jim