Discussion in 'Competitions' started by Kimbo, Jun 27, 2020.
A pair of Queens... Hymek / TRIANG conversions
Wow - now you've put yourself under pressure, is the confidence level running high, or is it that you are doing two as they only run in one direction.
Cheers Paul. Well yes and no. I’ve decided that they will not need twin motors due to their light weight construction, and as they are going to be exactly the same build (I might paint them different colours) it seemed a shame not to complete them both at the same time. We will see how I go
So to get back into this build I need to finish off the bogie side detailing, non of which is supplied in the kit. So I will use two different gauges of brass wire to add a reprentation of the pipework. I need to try and remember how I did the first two sides to replicate the other 6
they are different each side so I’ve done one of each....just 4 more to do
I cannot remember what you did either Kim but I followed your original work and it came out looking really good. I also put on the Peter Harvey etched footstep kit which made a massive difference.
Moved on a little bit more over the last few days. I needed to sort out the bogie fixing points, the instruction state, fold up the full lenght etch and secure to the body side.
Now this etch is quite thin so I’ve changed it for a more substantial length of “L” profile, but due to having to fill in and re-in force the body sides where the battery operated on off lever was removed, I cannot fit a full length, so I’ve installed 4 strips to each body which I’ve cemented into place with JB weld.
this shows the cross beam with the bogie fixing nut installed at one end. I’ve used micro screws here as I didn’t fancy soldering the two section of brass together. In all honesty I think the beams are set to high as viewed in the photo which may result in the body been to high on the bogies. Instruction state to set the ride height with shim’s of brass, to get the buffer hight correct....
Another quick job to do before applying some primer to the body was the installation of the window detailing etch. Nice straight forward job to do.
A quick blow over to see what areas need some body work attention......a few as it happens. Bogie sides now all done ready for a spot of paint before assembling them.
so some body work to do and assembly of the three remaining bogies next....
Great to see these two Hymeks coming together now Kim, I understand the issue in getting the ride height correct and in all honesty if this is any consolation I too binned those flimsy support etches that came with the conversion pack. Interesting too that we both used the same L shape angle system as a body framework reinforcer and glued it with similar product. Anyway lovely to follow your progress on these two and if it is any inspiration to newer members here it was Kim's original thread which inspired me to join Platform 1 following build progress on his original thread.
Incidentally when I purchased my Hymeks from the auction site I paid £12 for the first one then £25 for the second which I felt I'd been hard done by, I noticed just the other day a repainted blue one was for sale on that same site for £125. Hmmm how times have changed
Yep, that sounds about right Paul, as soon as I start looking for a cheap item to convert, build etc, I’m sure my iPad is bugged, linked to the web and Mr Murphy sends the prices shoot up....still Looking on the bright side Paul Hodgson gave me a tin of BR Blue paint, so I might paint them blue and put them up for sale...
When I look back now and add the costs of upgrading these Triang products it would have been a better option to have bought a Heljan bodyshell or even the complete loco, or come to think of it a JLTRT kit, a totally unstarted one went on ebay about three years ago for £280 or thereabouts. Green is a complex livery to apply to the Hymek in my opinion, Rail Blue with full Yellow ends is much the easier route and particularly if these loco's are to be sold on. One thing is for sure I wouldn't buy any BBT Mark 2 coaches for conversion as they are much to much like hard work, not that I have any interest in Mark 2 coaches of course.
So the next job is to sort out the remaining three bogies, the first one causing me a head ache in the original build. So parts required are 6 piece of brass etch 24 x 16mm, these will have the cross supports for the bogie sides and the a fixing for the brake gear. Once it’s all soldered up, removing one screw each end will split the bogie assembly from the wheel sets to allow easier maintenance and make painting the model a bit easier.
Rectangle tubing Makes up the space between the frames and mounting plate, and the copper tube will be the mounting points for the brake assemble.
plate and spacer fitted
offering up a brake assembly to check it will work
so it looks like it will all work out. All the piece of the jigsaw are now ready, it’s just a case of assembling them all together tomorrow.
All frames assembled and given a satin black spray over.
wheels are a mix of clean and very rusty, all will need a good clean up before assembly.
so wheels cleaned and the four chassis‘s have had a strip of copper clad glued to the sides of the frame that will have the insulated wheels fitted, the opposite side having a live wheel to chassis arrangement. There is a nut and bolt contact to take the power from the chassis to the motor. I’ve also added four strips of wire to make the electrical wipers for the insulated side.
A lot of work going on there Kimbo. Very comprehensive and hopefully will provide two very reliable running loco's. Very enjoyable watch.
So today I assembled the chassis with their wheels and decided that a quick test to check clearances and engine pulling power was required. First test using one motor and a oo gauge TCS decoder had the model sitting on the track wheel spinning.....oh dear...”couldn’t pull the skin of a rice pudding” sprang to mind, looks like I’m going to have to fit two motors in both models.
so I’ve added the Delrin chain to the second motor, installed it in one of the bodies and plonked it on the track for a test run using a ESU xlv4 to control both motors.
Elsie is on hand if it requires a push.....
Well it looks like a goer Kim....
Who are you talking about Gormo, the loco or Elsie ?
Yep not to bad for a first run. Noisy, but then I have not added any lubrication to the drive yet and the motors have not been run in, plus I attached the bogies with some brass bolts I have, but the kit supplies nylon bolts which will stop some of the noise coming into the body, which acts like a speaker.
So having now found out that 2 motors will be required for each model I have to install the cogs on the axles and install the delrin chain.
so the wheels and axles need removing from the two dummy bogies, next I had to grind off the bearing excess as the delrin cog will not fit on the axle.
Install the motor is a simple task, holes are already in the chassis so just two screws to attach it, then re-install the axle adding the main drive cog and the plastic delrin chain cog. Repeat the process at the other end, minus a drive cog and your ready to install the chain
A close up of a delrin chain for those that might not have seen or used one. It’s made from a hard plastic I think so using pliers to lever off the sides for the chain pin is a easy task.
next feed the chain around the two plastic delrin cogs and mark where you need to shorten the chain, then add one link as I’ve been advised it’s best to have a small amount of “give” in the chain
repeat process on the fourth chassis, and then test...all working correctly.
so going back to the body I thought it time to sort out a fixing for the fuel tank, which could be temporarily attached, bogies install and then test for clearance.....and this is where the kits bights back....” it don’t fit !!”
Check the instructions.......178mm apart to the bogie fixing holes....measurement is spot on...read the instructions again “bogie centre to centre 178mm apart....re check...not changed....penny drops, the hole in the bogie chassis I assumed are central to the bogie....wrong ! It’s 5mm out .....so the mounting points will need moving apart 10mm....don’t you just love kit building and basic instructions.
coffee time !
You are doing a great job there Kimbo. Hitting issues but finding resolutions none the less. Nice instruction on the delrin chains. I've never installed any before so another good reference point to have.
Did you have the extra motors in already or have to order for the other loco?