They don't but thinking about it, if you are fitting them to what will be essentially a plastic model. Why not use ordinary steel dress makers pins? You will be supergluing them in anyway not soldering them. Alternately have a look here - https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-brass-dressmaker-pins.html you will get thousands for buttons, in three months time when they finally arrive...
I’m pending a reply.. sadly not hopeful as the miserable git didn’t even send a message on our birthday .. I was fed up of it always being me who sent one first and had no surprise when nothing came through..! So, don’t get your hopes up! GWR were also odd ball in having the other orientation!
Rob, a bit late they are on order that's how I know the prices, their default checkout assumes 20 hr recorded delivery at £10, you have to manually switch it back to 1st class. Anyway being brass they will do for metalwork and well as resin, I have a etched brass kit that has gazillions of rivets to punch out, I just hope there are enough pins in 25grams, Andy, I don't expect anything but will live in hope.
I've spent a couple of hours this morning rechecking everything and I am in general pretty happy with the loco, there's a couple of bits to finish off but isn't there always. The current plan is 3 main prints, body, boiler smoke box and chassis. The reason for print the boiler separately is that one of the location points for joint the body to the chassis is in the saddle so I need access to it. So a question, captive cheese head screw or nut either way an alternative solution is to print the smoke box door separately allowing the boiler to be printed with the body. Any comments? All the parts that should be brass, Ramsbottom cover/lever, clack valves, injectors and blower valve will be brass and fitted after painting. Cab interior parts will be printed separate and fitted later. Brake gear printed separate and fitted later. Two unknowns the side tank fillers and Westinghouse hoses I could 3d print or replace with brass castings I haven't yet come to any decisions yet. I haven't given up on the westie pipe work yet but if fitted it would prevent the chassis being disassembled so may well be dropped unless someone comes up with a clever solution. Finally I would like to add dummy motion to fill the gap but haven't got any good photos or diagrams to work from and trying my trick of using the GA photo to work things out looks close to impossible. Merry Christmas to one an all on the website, lets hope 2023 is a better year for everyone around the world. Peace would be nice.
It probably won't really help but I am pretty sure that the valve gear is single slidebar Joy. With circular cranks (as opposed to the more usual oval/rounded rectangular type).
Rob They were definitely fitted with Joys gear and looking at the LH offering they look link circular cranks. Now where to track down a decent photo or better still diagram! There are a number of schematic diagrams on the internet so I have grabbed a few and a grab of the LG stuff, now it's down to a couple of educated guesses to figure out the relative dimensions and then start drawing. Fingers crossed but at best it will only be a simple representation of the motion, enough to infill the gap.
First punt at dummy motion using the fragments of information I have and a lot of imagination, the detail on the GA is incomprehensible, just lost in a morass of lines, so not attempt to model the radius arm etc has been made. The whole unit is design to slide into the chassis between the engine mount and the smoke box which are represented by the two end plates which may or may not get printed. All good in theory but yet to be proven.
I have just emailed the Laurie Griffin instructions for his Joy motion set. - I wasn't sure that word files would be accepted as attachments, it seems they might have but the file is too large anyway.
Mark 1 Valve gear destroyed - not good enough and more info in the LG instructions that Rob sent me. In the LG instruction there is a diagram which although not to scale, has a fixed dimension that means it can be calibrated there are also small sketches of various parts so I could use them to shape them correctly. Armed with all this new info I decided to use it to build new valve gear, although the components wouldn't be accurate to scale they would be proportionally correct relative to each other. Stage one the connecting rod and assorted linkages. Stage two the radius block and other bits a real brain fryer. And finally two connecting rods positioned in the radius block Enough for now
Does anyone know if the valve proceeds the piston or follows? They need adjusting to reflect this and I couldn't figure it out from the LG video of the gears. There are a couple of other jobs to do, the valve rod isn't lined up with its connecting rod and needs fixing, the front plate which fits behind the smokebox needs to be profiled to mirror the smokebox and I need to add a reversing lever, other than that I think I have done with the motion, just in time for Christmas. It currently looks like this when sitting between the frames.
Other than a couple of peaceful hours before the grandkids got up there hasn't been any time for messing in Fusion but odd bits got done. On Christmas Eve I manged to get an NER Loco number plate drawn using the diagram in Ken Hooles book, it's the first time I have been drawing things to 3 dec plates, but it look good, and can be adapted for any number , date or building shop. I also managed to get the dummy motion finished, I just have to hope it fits now. So it will be back to tidying up other assorted bits before the loco is complete. Now a new task hmmm no ideas yet.
Thanks Andy, but actually it's pretty straight forward once you get you brain around it other then minor bits and pieces the left side is a mirror of the right, having said that dopey one here choose to draw both sides rather than mirroring one to the other. I've also spotted a silly mistake which I thought I had fixed, The motion bracket is to high not by a lot but it needs fixing!
I'm applyimg to get my name changed from Mossy to Tinkerman - it fits better cos I can't stop ..... From about an hour this morning I kept looking around my dummy motion and kept finding things I didn't like so resolved to rebuild it, this time only 1/2 the rest of which could then be mirrored over to the other side. Not a difficult job now everything's in place, but ... I have been following the thread on 3d printed gears started by Gormo, evil could I possibly thoughts came to mind. Could I design working Joys motion and would it be strong and resilient enough, Gormos tests are going well so in for a penny and all that. Every link separate, linkage all to be either .9 or 1.6 mm nickel silver rod (anyone got a good source of such). Everything went well until I got to the big end bearing and the eccentric's, oh what fun that was, anyway I think it's finally sorted. All I need to do now is design a test bed and put it all together, that should be more fun. What can be seen on the screen grab below is 12 separate components, 11 of which need replicating to create the second side. Then there a test bed to design - hey ho isn't life great! The tinkerman
I think the answer to that is yes, I have a friend who casts eccentrics/straps etc. from resin moulds and has them working in his locos. They don't carry any load after all.
wow! Again! That’s great, especially if your looking to make it work.. Why are you not doing a business?
Andy, that's the plan or at least give it a damb good good, 50 ml of resin v £100+ from LG why not try even if it fails.
I believe my work as a Dark Side influencer has been well and truely completed and think it's time to pass on the batton For these parts it may be worthwhile testing printing at 0.02 layer height, and measuring the parts in all 3 directions to determine any inaccuracies. This should allow you to adjust the sizes to get a good fit. Also as in the reply to Gormo's thread on gears, PTFE seems to be the recommended lubricant, the spray can of WD-40 Specialist Anti Friction Dry PTFE Lubricant, currently available from both Toolstation and Screwfix direct, cheaper than when I bought mine a couple of years ago. One of the advantages is it is dry so shouldn't attract dust etc. Paul