Mossys 3D Models

Tuesday's are our Gritstone Club walking day, today it was the mulled wine and mince pie walk on Ilkley Moor so little time for working on the loco.
Early this morning I decided to if my spare engine/gearbox would fit and the best orientation.

First up draw a schematic of the gearbox, engine and flywheel



Then position it onto the rear wheel and check top, side and front views. Top and side looked like the flywheel may be catching but the front on view shows it is fine.





A few quick measurement also showed it didn't interfere with any of the body work. A repeat test driving the front wheel also cleared everything so I could mount it driving either. Given it's going to be a rigid chassis I'm open to suggestion is rear, front or doesn't it matter?

 

Rob

I have been fiddling about with the chassis this morning mainly checking yesterdays logic of will it fit. I was wrong, with an engine and flywheel it only fits driving the front axle and then only by extending the backhead 2mm into the cab, without a fly wheel in it fits comfortably - so that's a decision I need to make at some point.

The engine will fit neatly behind the side tanks etc and there is room for at least a representation of the ash pan floor and ends, full height it clashes with the engine but that is the invisible bit, I have also added the spacers for mounting the body and a brace to stop the engine rotating about the axle.

The frames are 2mm thick, but they could be thickened up by .5, ,75 or even 1mm if needed. I'm not sure if that's worth it as it will be printed using ABS like resin which if you believe the blurb is less brittle and more flexible than standard resins. I will be doing a test print post Christmas to check the fit of everything and possibly building a running chassis.

I think the only things left to do to the chassis are, thicken them around the axles (if needed), position the Air Tank and decide if it is going to have sprung pickups or not.
It looks a bit like this at the moment:

 

Rob

Do I need a fly wheel - good question, don't know. it was attached to the motor when I found it squirrelled away in the attic, why did I buy it, lost in the mists of time.

Motor is the MSC SM1532 which is their equivalent of a Mashima 1883, fly wheel is their "small", 4 mm thick, 22mm dia with a collar 5mm long, bore 2mm. The grub screw is positioned centrally in the 4mm flywheel body which means the 5mm collar could easily be removed thus eliminating the problem. But given your question do I need one at all?

 

Another question for you Rob.

I've decided to fit Slaters sprung pickups, which obviously come in packs of 6, 4 needed for the drivers, 2 spare which could be used on either of the radial trucks. I also have a couple of old spares which don't appear to have the plastic bushes. So would they work without the plastic bushes which I assume are only to prevent short circuits or do you know if Slaters do spares?

In terms of the fly wheel, DC so a wheel would be beneficial and it sounds like I need to saw off the extension and drive shaft and then it should fit but I will recheck the measurements again.

 

True, a case of brain fade! Btw the way your circular pattern worked treat. The air tank looks like this now, not that much of it will be seen.

 

The chassis is finished and awaits a test print just to double check everything fits. I ordered the missing wheels and coupling rods from Slaters on Wednesday and they arrive yesterday - pretty good service given the postal chaos, the only problem is I forgot to order the bearings, which I need to check the size of the holes cut into the frames before doing a test print.



There's very little left to do just minor mopping up bits, so casting about for something else to crack on with I came up with a very silly project, which may or may not get used - a DIY backhead. I have a spare white metal one from the Gladiator J21 which was destined for an abandon project of another NER loco which could be used but could I draw a sensible looking one based on that? Frankly no-one knows the configuration of the early backhead even the NERA don't appear too have photos/drawings, Tom kindly investigated that a while ago so whatever is done is only going to be a facsimile of the real thing. There is also a brass version available from LG at an ouch price, so what's to lose. Measuring tiny white metal components with my headset magnifier and cheapo digital calliper is proving fun but there ought to be some results later today.

 

Cheers Rob, I bet you can guess where the abandoned kit came from .

I have been playing with the backhead and abandoned almost all that I had drawn and started again.

The pressure gauges provided looked like this and for now I have kept one.


But after grubbing about on the binty net I found a Westinghouse pressure gauge vintage unknown but it looks much better so I may well use 2 of these instead.


Finally for now, using the photo of LS 2-003 I mocked up the whistle pipework, the 3 pipes may need adjusting but thats relatively simple.


My current battle is the Westie brake, I found this on the net, but obviously have no idea of scale or depth so the search goes on unless someone can magic up a better diagram.

 

Oops missed a bit. Looking through the photos sent by Tom, injectors are shown on both the drivers side and the firemans side, but the two photos despite being both NER aren't of the same era, one is in TW Worsdell livery the other WW Worsdell livery. The white metal kit has a single water gauge, the LG has two? So did the class A have 1 or 2 injectors and water gauges? More research needed. Regardless of how many, I assume all that would be in the cab is pipework with a valve to open/close the water flow as needed.

 

Andy,

that would be fine, at the moment it isn't going anywhere. More searches of the internet have found nothing.

While hunting for photos of a westie I found an enlarged photo of an LG backhead which is far more detailed than the white metal jobbie, so I have used it to add further details to the actual back head. Why take all this trouble for something that would hardly be seen - I like the pain or as Mallory said about Everest 'because it's there' only diference is I don't plan to freeze to death doing so.

 

Earlier in this thread there was a discussion on soldering steel etches (posting 417, 418, 422 and 426). A couple of days ago my Slaters order arrived (including the connecting rods) arrived and early today I fished out the instructions and they are pretty unequivocal I quote 'Phosphoric acid flux is not really satisfactory here so use Bakers fluid'. Case over. The Bakers no 3 order arrived yesterday before I had read the instructions.

 

The backhead development is stopped waiting to see if Andy can get me some pic's or dimensions, so I made a start on another detail - lamp irons. The NER being awkward b....s had to be different to everyone else and in its early days the lamp mounting was at right angles to the normal configuration. LG sell cast brass ones at £12 per loco/tender/tank engine but placing great faith in ABS resin (also a degree of boredom) I drew up a set using the dimensions from the Gladiator N8/9, including upright and flat standard lamp irons. Left to right, smoke box top, rear or tender top, upright basic and basic lying flat.



I would really like to get rid of the rivet heads and replace them by pins, but internet searches have been a miserable failure, almost all the pins seem to have a 1mm shank which would mean the head being 1.5-2mm, far to big. If anyone knows of a source of much finer please please let me know.

While on a role I also drafted up an underslung westie pipe and connector using a screen grab of the LG offering and assuming the pipework would be .7mm diameter. I'm happy with most of it except the connector (part in blue), the side on shape was easy but I have no idea of the front on shape, again can anyone help.

 

Thanks Rob

They don't come cheap do they £6.96 ex vat for an unspecified quantity (25grams) and postage £5 ex VAT = £14.30 with VAT.