Yorkie's Connoisseur 4F build

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by York Paul, May 27, 2020.

  1. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Last edited by a moderator: May 27, 2020
  2. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Just getting prepared for this build, cracked the kit open and let the etches see daylight this afternoon. The main reason was to check the inventory of castings and bring a few other bits I'll need together such as handrail knobs, plunger pick ups, phosphor strip and wiring connectors. I have ordered a set of working screw couplings from Slater's so I've got pretty much everything needed now.


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  3. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Still waiting for my buffers - they are on the way (I hope) mind you I'll have a wee while until the tender body is ready for buffers.
    That piccy reminds me I need to find the connectors to send to Toto.

    Looks like your in the blocks and ready to go.

    Have you selected your victim yet.

    Paul
     
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  4. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    I had wondered about 44432 but then found a picture of 44536 which was a Stoke engine in its last days.

    Which one of the connectors would you recommend the thinner wire is 28 gauge and the thicker 22 gauge
     
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  5. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    44536 pictured here in 1962 between the North and Middle Harecastle Tunnels... this is my victim... a Stoke allocation in its latter days.
    Photo courtesy of Michael Mensing.


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  6. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Nice looking loco Paul. Is this what the finished condition of your build will look like ?
     
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  7. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Yes pretty much so but not totally caked in grime, I want it to look used but not derelict. 44536 was at nationalisation a 12A Carlisle Kingmoor loco then was transferred to 82E Yeovil somewhere in 1959, then somewhere before 1962 she went to Stoke 5D lasting there until August 1965 when presumably all Stoke's 4F fleet allocation was culled and replaced with BR Standard Class 4's.
     
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  8. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Preparation has taught me never to go rushing in because it will inevitably end badly, so since the team are starting their respective builds tomorrow and I shall be out in the morning and then discussing a job ripping out the bathroom with a plumber in the afternoon there won't be much time for me to start this kit in the day. With all this in mind I decided to take a closer peek at the etches to see if there was anything that needed flagging up knowing most likely that Toto would want to start on the tender in the day, this is what I have found and here is my suggestive advice.

    Once Part 63 (tender sides) are cut out from the frame along with Parts 64 (side beading inlays) Jim's instructions tell us to solder these parts in place, that is quite correct and as he openly says these instructions were written a long time back, but the small ribbed Part 64 which goes at the front has two marks for the location of hand rail knobs... these holes must be drilled out first before any soldering I believe. My suggestion is drill out the upright bead with a 1.2mm drill (or similar) then solder this piece into place on the tender side in the correct order as instructed, once all the raised beads have been fitted then drill through the tender side with a 1.6mm drill which I think is the size needed for the handrail knobs , but do check first. This will prevent "loosing" the handrail knob positions and the bead ends will secure firmly once the knobs are soldered on.

    Here is the picture and the Stanley blades are pointing to the area on the ribbed bead in question. The reason I'm flagging this one is because obviously there are two bead sets, one for each side and on one set the grabrail knob holes have not etched all the way through so there is no location point for drilling if these are soldered in position first. Hope this flag up helps.


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  9. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Thanks for that Paul. I knew the beads were one of the first jobs but did not pick up on the handrail hole issue ..... well spotted and shared.

    :thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

    I do note on further inspection that one of these no 64 etches is not etched the same as the rest. It looks like the side beading furthest to the rear of the tender . Hmm wonder why.
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2020
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  10. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    No worries Toto, ok so one Part 64 the other vertical without an inset rib goes at the back of the tender. Now another thing for goodness sake get Part 62 the correct way up when soldering the two 6BA holding down nuts... I.ve pre assembled mine and will show you and Dundee on Skype tonight if you twos are on. Gotta go just frying up bacon and eggs.
     
  11. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Without checking it out in detail, I'd think 62 will go with any identifying etched Mark's to the top. However ...... check twice ..... solder once. :avatar::thumbs:

    Toto
     
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  12. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Yes when looking at 62 from overhead you will see the arc cut out at the very rear, this is for the vacuum pipe which is positioned to the right of the drawbar. I've just checked a myriad of pictures including right hand drive engines and they all come back with the same tender back end arrangement. Good job I did because my chosen loco 44536 has a tender with the tank vents inside the coal bunker space and no coal rails either, I wanted to add coal rails so my loco choice is either 44352 which was an Alsager 5E engine and will go lovely on the Elton layout with 47606 or another long time Stoke engine 44393 which I have a picture of coming down the Cauldon branch at Bradnop. So its a toss up between either really as they are both have features I want.
     
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  13. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    S&D loco then if Yeovil area do you think?
     
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  14. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Yes I'd say so it was Andy... I've since dismissed this loco aas it doesn't have coal rails and that's what I want to model, going for ether Alsager's 44352 or Stoke's 44393 both worked up the Cauldon. 44422 did have coal rails fitted either with its original tender.
     
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  15. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Starting this build with the tender the same as Toto and Dundee have done, however to make the build interesting I decided to diverge somewhat from the written instructions, well we don't want to read three need identical build threads... or do we ? :avatar:

    I soldered the two 6BA holding down nuts onto the tender baseplate then soldered the centre support beam into position having lightly filed down the edges, this gave a good 90 degree right angle support for the sides to go on and eased positioning of the sides prior to soldering. Everything was checked for perpendicular using an engineers angle and the tender base checked for flatness on the flatstone.


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  16. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    I put together detailing on both sides, this included the flat beading, grab rails which were formed from 0.7,, wire and the front handrails and their knobs, the holes for these wwere opened up using a 0.8mm twist drill. It was easier to get all this out of the way first.


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  17. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    The beads were first tinned on their rib side then sweated into place with a dry iron, starting with the bottom bead it was important to ensure its lower edge was in line with the base of the tender side piece otherwise the body wouldn't sit true on the tender base when soldered and this would put twist into the tender chassis.


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  18. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Having fixed the bottom bead correctly I then did the same with the front upright bead ensuring that too stayed in alignment with the front edge. Next I fitted the top bead and then finally trimming the read bead (without the rib) so that a nice closed fit was made. The picture shows the grab rail holes drilled to 0.7mm and the ends of the long beads still to be trimmed.


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  19. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Now it was time to fit the first corner, the tender end piece was tack soldered in place ensuring it was equal on each edge, next I offered the first side unit and tack soldered it to the tender base in the corner making sure the base remained flush to the side piece as I continued to tack solder along. Once happy with the result I seamed up the joins with a good fillet of running solder.


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  20. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    So it was over to the other side to repeat the action and once soldered up I filed the excess on the tabs flush with a file. The tender tank now sat quite flat on my flatstone surface and turning the tank upside down the top edges sat flat too.


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