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Just call me Paul O

Discussion in 'Workshop Benches' started by paul_l, Apr 11, 2016.

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Apr 16, 2016 #21

paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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Hi Pete

1 step at a time, first I need something to stand it on.

I made up a small jig from grey board to help with the cutting of copper clad sleepers.

A few strips of card glues to a card base then given a coat of varnish.

I just slide in a copper clad strip and cut to the correct length with a pair of side cutters.

Then place them on the track template

Still a few more to go.

Paul
Apr 16, 2016 #22

jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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There is something very satisfying about building your own trackwork, pointwork is seen by many people as a black art but if you get the jigs and the templates half the battle is won, plain track work is a great start, is the copper clad pre fluxed? it helps with keeping the work clean, no nasty acid flux.

Have fun, cheers, Pete.
Apr 16, 2016 #23

paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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Getting there ...

Using a steel rule to help keep the rail straight, one rail is soldered to the copper clad sleepers.

The roller gauges are used to hold the rail parallel to the already fixed rail, then soldered in place.

A piece of card is handy place on the rail to help keep the rail in contact with the sleeper, and to protect your finger from the heat

'Scuse the mess, but I was supposed to be making the the buildings for Viccy Road, Pete your right, the pull of the dark side is strong

Paul
Apr 16, 2016 #24

Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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Never took you long to rattle that together.
Looks good
toto
Apr 16, 2016 #25

gormo Staff Member Administrator

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O Paul,

That`s really good.......hand laid track is a great way to get what you really want.

I `m looking forward to your point making. Personally, I reckon once you`ve got the frog sorted you`re home and hosed.

http://www.clickGormo
Apr 16, 2016 #26

paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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Cheers Guys,

I still have to gap the sleepers, test for shorts and then mabe apply power to the 4F - I've not tested it to see if it runs yet

Paul
Apr 16, 2016 #27

gormo Staff Member Administrator

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Apr 16, 2016 #28

paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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fingers well and truely crossed when I apply the power

Paul
Apr 17, 2016 #29

SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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Apr 19, 2016 #30

paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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Just taking a break from buildings on Viccy Rd.

As the test track is made from copper clad, I needed to gap the sleepers for insulation

Weapon of joice, a dremel with a sanding drum.

Once completed, a multimeter was used to check for shorts

That'll do for me.

Two coats of Raw umber acrylic paint was applied neat with a brush to try and simulate wood grain.

Paul
Apr 20, 2016 #31

jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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Looking good mate!

Pete.
Apr 20, 2016 #32

gormo Staff Member Administrator

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.......

http://www.clickGormo
Apr 20, 2016 #33

paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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Had a lazy evening, so just had to mess things up a little to round the day off.

The only ballast I had available was Woodland scenics Fine Gray.

Usual method, spread evenly with a brush.

Then wet with a fine mist of "wet water" - tap water + a couple of drops of washing up liquid.

The drizzle on the 50:50 water / PVA glue - again with a couple of drops of washing up liquid added.

And another spray of wet water too make sure all is wet and the glue will travel by capillary action.

Paul
Apr 20, 2016 #34

Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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You could maybe add a sprinkle of coarser ballast over the fine stuff. Not completely cover it, just a hit and a miss here and there.

Let the existing stuff dry first. It's hard to tell when it's still wet.

Cheers

Toto
Apr 21, 2016 #35

paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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Actually looking not too bad this morning, a few gaps, but then it was done in a hurry

When I get home from work I'll post some piccies, later

Paul
Apr 21, 2016 #36

paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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Two school boy errors

- should have braced the plywood first (especially as its a piece of packing ply)
- shouldn't have dried it on the radiator

However

Paul
Apr 21, 2016 #37

Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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Looks good, everything sits well on it. Now .......... only another 150m of track and 23 sets of points to go ....... onwards and upwards.
Apr 21, 2016 #38

SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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A real plank

Looking good Paul
Did the 4F run after the sleepers were gaped ??

The wet water, recently I have replaced the wet water with a mist of isopropyl alcohol/water has a plus in that as it evaporates seems to suck the 50:50 mix into the surface of the ballast and doesn't really seem to pool at all.

The only down side is the isopropyl isn't on tap but a bulk 100% 5L goes a long way, then do your own cutting to the desired % isn't that expensive and the results seem to be worth the few $
Apr 22, 2016 #39

paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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Not tested it yet, as I need to find a 12V controlled power supply, I may have to use the Duette yet, I should have and old Gaugemaster feedback controller - somewhere

Hopefully a task for this weekend.

Paul
Apr 22, 2016 #40

paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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Still looking for the controller, but just to keep the juices flowing, I did find my other 4F, last worked on approx 24 years ago, apart from retro fitting a TCS T1 decoder.

I've only placed on the body so it's slightly high at the back.

Airfix Body and tender, perserverence chassis, Alan Gibson Wheels, comet tender chassis spaced out for P4, RG4 motor and TCS T1 decoder.

Paul

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