Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by paul_l, May 27, 2020.
Could you make it a tad oversized with the gap and then it will pull in? (If that makes sense?)
Made a couple of changes
first up restored the gap - 0.2mm
second as this is printed on the the base plate, the first few layers are squashed, I've added 0.3 mm on to the bottom face.
Just need to slice and get it ready to print tomorrow.
Nuts just realised I didn't hit the post reply button last night
As you suggested I had restored the gap, and as the fit was tight this should have the result you suggest.
I've printed the modified version shown above - in green resin
The split also means I can solder the middle boiler band then install the 3d printed one as it can pass over the middle one.
Nice impressive solution Paul
There is still a tendancy for the boiler band to split at the join so a further change to the design has a 0.4mm radius to the join between the band and the seal version 3b
I've not printed this one as I have a working version 3a, but you never know
Nice one Dundee and a design winner I'm sure. Now guess what I've done it again... only gone and lost a casting which was going to be the next add on bit on the boiler, this time its the circular Ross Pop safety valve round base. Ordered a lost wax replacement from Laurie last night... oh those loco brake rigging linkages which went missing down the space time continuum vortex a month ago have reentered reality again... this time at the other end of the workshop.
I see Murphy has an apprentice called Sods who is involved in the new legistation process , general rule of thumb, if it ain't appeared within the 5 second rule, then it won't appear until the replacement has arrived, affectionately known in the trade as Sods Law .
Not done a lot today, late finnish, and when I arrived home a big box delivered by the postie sent by Bittern, and contained a whole train of wagons.
Maybe more progress tomorrow.
Tut.. all that wibbly wobbly timey wimey stuff! (To quote Dr Who)
And the replacement lost wax casting arrived with this mornings post... now two days from lacing order to arriving is pretty damn good in my book.
Excellent purchase Dundee and one in which gets you an instant train.
Not a lot achieved this weekend, but I have at least soldered the middle boiler band
Cleaned up with the glass fibre brush followed by the fibre polishing heads
Is it normal for Slaters wheels to rust so quickly - Tom and I have both had issues (I checked my tender after Tom mentioned it)
So a good couple of hours spent removing the axles cleaning up and giving them a rub with WD40.
Is it something we are doing wrong ?
One of my tender axles has completely seized. Cant get it off at all. Not good. I should have reamed the bearings out more.
Is it seized in the bearing/s Toto? Try a small drop of WD40 type lube and let it stand for 24 hrs, hopefully the oil will penetrate and loosen the rust.
Polish the axle and wipe a very light smear of oil on, more to stop tarnishing than lubricating.
I had originally replied to say that the best way to stop them rusting is to metal black them, but the text seems to have disappeared from the post leaving only the quote of Paul's post.
Hi Rob, I did wonder, would the Phillips Professional Cold Blue solution achive this or would you recommend another solution ?
I use Birchwood Casey Gun Blue but I have used Carrs metal black previously. I didn't think that the Carrs product was as good as Birchwood Casey but it maybe that I didn't really understand how to get the best from it at the time.
It's the first that I have heard of the Phillps product so I can't offer an informed opinion. I think it would be worth a try if you can get hold of it easier than other solutions.
Easily the cheapest and best way for solid steel items like buffer heads, axles and screws is hot bluing. I use this method all the time, but as you might expect it's no good for the wheels themselves because you would melt the spokes.
I will do a little tutorial on hot bluing and put it in the tips section.
Thanks Rob, I've ordered up the Birchwood Casey Gun Blue kit from ebay.
I can vouch for the hot bluing method, the one and only time i've used it was to create this
This was filed out of black bar 42 years ago, once completed the Dice and base were heated up and immersered in oil to get the buing, the spots on the face drilled then the whole lot given a couple of coats of laquer. Nothing else done to it for for 42 years - well my Mum would dust it and looking at the surface, i'll be in trouble.
Very nice, I must confess that I am finding all sorts of uses for hot bluing that I had never considered before. I am even bluing the plain steel screws that Slaters provide with some axles (some seem to be black japanned but I suppose it's what they can buy at the time).
I found a video on Youtube while looking for something else so I have posted that in the hints and tips section.
I bought the Carrs blackening fluid and to be honest, found it virtually useless so haven't tried it since. We have a gun shop in nearby Alfreton so next time I need to blacken anything, I'll get some gun blue from there and give that a go.