Paul_L's Connoisseur 4F build

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by paul_l, May 27, 2020.

  1. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Everything is starting to line up to give me a kick in the pants, and pull my finger out :whatever:

    The Birchwood Perma Blue Liquid Gun Blue Kit arrived, so I can blacken the drivining wheels and shafts before chassis assembly starts

    I've just about completed the DC power controller build, which allow me to run in the chassis

    And I'm starting to feel really guilty that I've done nowt on the build for nearly 3 weeks, any longer and I'll be applying to Toto for this to be my entry for the shelf queen competition :facepalm:.

    Next up is the chassis.

    A little digression now, approx 18 months ago I celebrated 40 years service, and as part of the celebrations I was given a voucher to spend on anything I wanted, and in my case I decided to buy the Avonside Works Chassis2SuperPro - which is the 7mm version giving 5 axles with maximum wheel base of 302mm 43ft in 7mm or 75.5 ft in 4mm. I also purchased the additional axle pin sets for 1/8" and 2mm axles for 4mm construction. I had always fancied one of these, but could never really justify it, after all it's the price of a loco kit in its own right, but this gave me the opportunity (excuse) to get something to act as a permanent reminder of where I've been hiding for that last 40 years.

    As many have shown on this forum, you don't need a fancy jig to make a good chassis, but it can't do any harm, and now is the time for me to see if this jig can earn it's keep.

    This is not the first time I've used the jig, I used it for the Tender Chassis, and the Class 26 Bogies, and did have a concern with the bearings flanges on a uncompensated chassis. When soldering the bearings in place on the chassis frames, the inside face of the frame is placed against the teflon base with the outer face facing up. The bearings are then threaded over the axle pins and through the chassis then slodered in place. Repeat the process for the other frame. Now my concern, when assembling the chassis, the first frame is threaded back on to the jig, this time with the inner face pointing up. However the flanges don't fit into the gap between the teflon build surface, making the frames only supported by the bearing flanges. I thought this can't be right - it's not a problen with compensated chassis as the hornblock assemblies tend to be entirely on the inner face.


    Time to read the manual for any clues, and found the answer -who'd of thunked it :whatever:

    The fastening screws holding the teflon build surface are not drilled on center


    Note the curved corners on the above photo when these two are next to each other the gap is larger than when the square corners are next to each other (the default position).
    The bearings now drop straight through.

    Now time to set the jig up ........

    But that'll be tomorrow, as I've just had a beer or two to celebrate :cheers:

    Paul
     
  2. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    OK so another week has passed :facepalm:

    The jig is supplied with two lenghts of axle pins - short and erm.. long


    The short pins are used for setup and securing the bearings / hornblocks, the long pins for chassis assembly.

    My jig can take upto 5 axles, then center axle is fixed, the other axles are adjuted to the correct wheel base by adjusting screws at each end of the jig.


    Now possibly my only criticism of the kit so far, the etched holes for the axle bushings are 5.3mm dia, and need to be opened out with a reamer to fit the bushes, which is 6.4mm, and I feel a little nervous opening out 6 holes by 1mm and hoping all will remain aligned. I assume that when the kit was designed in 1992 (it has a date on the etch), smaller diameter bushes were available. Now would this stop me buying another - definately NOT, but if ever there is a re-vamp of the drawing it would be nice to see the hole size opened and maybe even half etched lines for hornblocks.

    So out with the taper reamers and here we go


    Once the holes have opened out, and with the bushes fitted, I can set the wheel base of the jig
    As this is a rigid chassis the chassis sides have been used as the setting piece, if this was a compensated chassis the coupling rods would have been used to set the wheelbase.
    Actually if I hadn't got the reaming of the holes correct I would have opened out the holes further and used the coupling rods to have aligned the bushes.


    Second frame reamed out and the mounted on to the jig.



    Looking good, now time to get the soldering iron out.

    Paul
     
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  3. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Just thought I'd check the instructions - if fitting plunger pick ups, its best to ream out the holes now - dodged that mistake :whatever:

    Also looked at the Chassis2Pro instructions

    Check axle setting pins are aligned using a straight edge - slight rocking here, losened off the clamps and fixed that, re-checked wheel base was ok.
    Using fence guides and side rulers - Check top of chassis is parallel - mmmmm 6.5mm one side 6mm on t'other :facepalm: checked the other side and a similar result


    Removed the center bushing and both ends now the same but the center bush wont go in.


    I opened out the center hole and now ok.
    All bearings soldered in place.


    Long pins fitted, Frame flipped over, and placed back on the jig. The bushings fit perfectly between the teflon work surfaces and were ready to start and fit the chassis spacers, but before I go any further time to read both sets of instructions as I'm miles away from Jims instructions, need to see if the assembly order for the jig will screw up other features.

    Paul
     
  4. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    I now had to file down the tabs on the frame spacers as they are deeper than the frame thickness, not normally a problem unless you are building on to a flat surfce.

    Using the clamps to hold the frame down, and the bridging piece and a hair grip to hold piece C in place, then tacked in place. Once happy the part was flush and square it was then completed with a fillet of solder.


    The same process was done for parts A & D.


    Spacer E had the nut soldered in place.

    The second frame was then added and aligned, with spacer B & E loose fitted.

    Alignment looked good so was soldered up.


    I'll do a bit of cleaning up before adding the brake hangers etc.

    Paul
     
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  5. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I like the bridging piece idea. My hobby holidays jig doesn't have such refinements.
     
  6. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Rob

    There is also a full length verticle fence I didn't need to use, now I'm starting to get used to using the jig (and understand how to use the jig) a compensated chassis is becomming less of a fearful prospect.

    A little further work done

    Balance weights, brake hangers and front sandbox spacing brackets fitted



    Next step is the motor bracket, and checking for clearence in the firebox, well that will be tomorrow, but you just have to try the two bits together


    Until tomorrow then

    Paul
     
  7. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Now, fortunately I had purchased the Connisseur Models Motor gearbox combination, as the motor mount included in the kit is full width and uses the axle bushes to locate / retain it in position, not an issue following the instructions as you build up the frames before installing the bushings. But I used a jig which fits the bushings at the start.

    The Connisseur Motor Gearbox however is narrower and fits between the axle bushes - phew.

    This is a Nickel Silver etch, supplied with a 40:1 Gearset and a Mashima 1833 motor.

    upload_2020-7-26_10-0-47.png

    Now where's that soldering iron

    Paul
     
  8. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    I need to jump around a bit now.

    I had fitted all of the brake hangers, but the rear hanger is preventing the motor tilting far enough forward to clear the cab bulkhead.



    I'm hoping I don't need to remove all of the rear motor shaft as I'd like to fit a flywheel.

    I will now need to fit the brake hanger brackets for the rear axle, to allow me to cut the brakehanger wire between the frames.

    Paul
     
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  9. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    I only took the wheels and axel out of the packet this morning and they have started to rust already :headbanger:

    Time to use the Birchwood Casey Perma Blue.

    I've only done the drivers and axles, with just one application and buffed up with wire wool.

    20200726_170930v2.jpg

    The tender wheels are still in original condition (well after a couple of cleans and a light coat of oil to try and hold off the rusting), they will be getting done next.

    Motor mount is constrained, and meshing not to shabby. unloaded current draw before running in is 0.1 to 0.2A.

    It's coming together




    Paul
     
  10. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Fitted the motor to the chassis - rear wheel drive only - old school me none of this fancy front or all wheel drive :avatar:

    After a hour in each direction on the rolling road we're at 0.05A.


    Looking good for a 4mm sized dcc decoder, not sure whether to fit sound, but in the interim may fit a TCS T1 (can supply upto 2A).

    Paul
     
  11. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Have you blacked the tender Dundee ?
     
  12. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Not yet, hopefully this evening, I need to also check the coating on the drivers.

    Paul
     
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  13. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    That`s coming along beautifully Paul.......love the jig...what a ripper...:thumbs:
    :cheers::tophat:Gormo
     
  14. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Gormo, now I'm starting to get used to the jig it's showing it's benefits. It wasn't cheap, but allows me with limited skills to produce a square chassis. I've to try a compensated chassis, and will look at my outstanding kits to see if I have a suitable kit to do. Preferably it will be an O gauge kit, but if a suitable 4mm one is in the locker, you never know what the next build will be.

    Paul
     
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  15. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    That`s good Paul...:thumbs:
    As you know, I am a fan of jigs.....and yours is a beauty which will pay for itself in square chassis.
    :cheers::tophat:Gormo
     
  16. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    It's a belter Paul.

    Looking great Sir. I visited the shed tonight for the first time in ages. The axle that I sloshed with WD 40 is still rusted solid. Not sure where to go with that now. I may spend some time on it this weekend as I am trying to get my motivation back.

    Keep it coming.

    Toto
     
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  17. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Do you have an ultrasonic cleaner available to you. If the right one has arrived yet, you could give it a 10 min buzz, it may loosen it off enough to break the rust down and allow you to rotate the axles. Then soak again in penetrating oil.

    Paul
     
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  18. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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