Very nice work Steve, even in cruel close up it looks excellent. Looking forward to seeing the scribed finish . Cheer's, Pete.
Steve - inspirational. One day I hope to have a larger layout to fit something like this in and your photo's and comments will be very useful. I'm also with you on the benefits of making cardboard mock ups for structures such as this. Helps to check clearances and perspective. A sharp craft knife and a hot glue gun can quite quickly produce a good impression of what the finished article might look like. My current road bridge mock up has now been on the layout for so long I'm considering just painting the road surface and covering the rest of it it with brick paper! Dave C
Good work Steve you must be very proud of the viaduct I know I would be ... even the 'getting plastered in a good way' Ian vt http://www.click
Nice work Steve. This will be a great structure on your layout. Now the fun part begins, will be following with great interest. Kim
Thanks for the words of encouragement, I'm thinking I will cover the cornice cement with a topping compound to get a smooth and even finish before I start with the scribbing of the stonework. I expect that it will take many days to complete but it could be quite therapeutic doing it. On the other hand I may get bored after five minutes and throw it in the bin, start again and cover it in plasticard...... but I hope not.
What I didn't say in the original post is that it's not too important getting worked up over how accurate the cutting is because once it's covered with plaster it doesn't matter. But I figured that if I start with something that is 95% correct that allows me to slip a bit and still end up with a pretty good result.
Well mate as luck would have it I'm in Darwin tonight, so yeah, why don't I fly down in the morning for an hour of work, then I'll come back here before heading home!
The viaduct is coming along nicely now. I found scribing brick/block work reasonably easy if you use the a scapel knife edge first, followed by clearing the grove with the reverse side of the blade. 1. Cut groves using a straight edge... 2. Sweep up dust using a paint brush. This helps to clear the grooves for the next step. 3. Use the back edge of the knife to clear and widen the groove/mortar lines. Finished, cleaned up and ready for painting. You may find this interesting : http://p1mrc.com/p1mrc/view_topic.php?id=147&forum_id=28 Cheers, Gary.
Gary, that will come in handy. Thank you so much for posting that, I will give the plaster a couple more days to dry before I attack it.Your photos have given me an idea of what I need to do. Cheers Steve
Is that right? Wow, what a great tip. So I wonder why the salt water speeds it up? I'll have to give that a try. I'm using premixed multi purpose joint compund as I find it is very workable and has a beautiful smooth and creamy consistency. https://www.bunnings.com.au/gyprock-csr-3kg-multi-purpose-joint-compound_p0730736 Ron wrote:
Kim:No not too smooth. I will make sure there is texture there.I was thinking about the scribing of mortar courses last night and am going to make up a wooden scribe with nails spaced along it to scribe the horizontal lines. This should result in a quick and efficient way of scribing the plaster.I will try it on a piece of plaster before I do it on the viaduct. PS, Love the new photo on your user details. Is it an 9F pulling an oil train?