Well, discount the Metcalfe one and I've got about half a scalescene building made ......... But no roof for it. Toto
Started on the Parcels depot I've used the end wall of the Scalescene goods shed made deeper to give the two stories, and 2 x Goods shed outer walls for the rear. The front uses 5 x Warehouse sections, with the low relief ware house in front..... looks a bit like this and... Now to start cutting out window apertures.... Paul
Looking good so far Paul. A great use of these kit parts. Given me some ideas for the Highbridge goods shed area. Cheers Toto
A little further progress .... Started to fit the brick paper to the end, Most of that wall will be covered by bits of the Scalescene large station building kit, to form offices and pedestrian parcel collection. Paul
OK, slow progress, but progress non the less..... Ive made the track base and supports, trimmed and fitted the outer wall to size. The other wall cut to shape, and inner brick papers from the goods shed modified to give .... The extra flashing was from a second copy. A copy of the painted brick TX05 was purchased from Scalescenes, printed and cut to shape A quick mock up to see what it looks like, the rear wall is actually the wrong way round, but I haven't cut the window apertures on the inner wall yet. The gap at the end will for the lift between floors. Paul
G`day Paul, What sort of knife or blade are you using to cut out the window apertures...I thinking of going down this road myself soon and I am interested in your techniques. http://www.click Gormo
Hi Gormo Knives - Stanley hobby knife for cutting the thick card. Swan morton hobby knives brass and plastic handle versions both fitted with a No 1 blade and a Swan Morton No3 Scalpel handle with a 10A blade. For window apertures I use the Swan Morton hobby knives (brass and orange handles) with a No.1 blade. For the thin card / paper I use the scalpel, for example for the findow frames. Be prepared to use a lot of blades tho'. For cutting foam board, I have got the best results using the hobby knife / new No.1, lightly cut through the top paper layer, then complete the cut on the second cut. Using a stanley knife - even with a new blade tends to drag and chew up the foam core. Paul
Hi Paul, I think I'll be going down the same route with Highbridge. I'll be looking to modify the new warehouse kit from Scalescenes. Just trying to come up with an idea for the surrounding area first. The Scalescenes kits are starting to grow on me. They are very adaptable. Keep up the good work. Cheers Toto
Ok Paul Thanks for that.....I`m used to going through blades with the snap off type I use for most of my work so far. There`s no point in using a blade that has lost that brilliant edge. It will tear rather than cut. I am not familiar with Swan Morton.....so I`ll track that down or an Aussie equivalent. I have all the other stuff with the exception of the roller......I`ll look into that too. I had wondered about the foam core......sounds a bit awkward but OK in the end. I was considering possibly having a go at 3mm MDF but the thought of cutting out the windows accurately puts me off. Thanks for the info........very helpful. http://www.click Gormo
Hi Paul, The layout is moving along now. I like the goods shed/office/dispatch building, very creative indeed. The Scalescenes kits are very versatile and any number of buildings can be built from the kits. I'm not sure how many kits I have now, but they are great for mixing and matching to get a desired result. Keep the great work coming. Gormo, foam core is easy to work with. It cuts reasonably clean and can be sandede down easily too. I have used foam core on some of my Industry Lane buildings and retaining wall. Cheers, Gary.
Hi Gormo Have to agree with Gary, I'm finding Foam core easier to work with - certainly easier on the wrists, just takes practice, and sharp blades. Talking of which http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_5_12?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=swann+morton+knife&sprefix=swann+morton%2Caps%2C264 Swann Morton are makers of surgical instruments, and craft tools, a UK based firm in Sheffield. Paul
Okey Dokey, You`ve sold me on foam board. Thanks for the link Paul.....I`ll check it out http://www.click Gormo
A hot glue gun works well with foam core, although these can be quite messy leaving 'strings' about the place. PVA also works but does take longer to cure. Five minute Araldyte can also be used. Araldyte : http://www.selleys.com.au/adhesives/household-adhesive/araldite/five-minute-everyday/ Cheers, Gary.
You can also get cool melt - hot glue guns http://www.therange.co.uk/stick-it-cool-melt-glue-gun//the-range/fcp-product/59869 as against the normal version http://www.therange.co.uk/stick-it-hot-melt-glue-gun//the-range/fcp-product/59870 not sure of the temps, but may be useful for securing plastic bits while the glue sets. Paul
Current lot is 5mm thick, I prefer the 3mm thick stuff, can be supplied in white or black. Recent stuff was from Hobbycraft, as they are just across the road, with a coffee shop next door to tempt the boss out Paul