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Victoria Road

Discussion in 'Members Personal Layouts' started by paul_l, Dec 5, 2015.

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  1. Feb 24, 2016 #161
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    One day you'll pluck up the courage :avatar:
     
  2. Feb 24, 2016 #162
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Back to the real job ... as they say

    Paint's dry, so more cobble stone laying

    [​IMG]
    Using pavement parts from both the Scalescene small terraced corner shop kit and low relief high street kits I laid out the pavements, using the pavement / road joint on the left to conceal the baseboard joint. These were stuck on to 2mm grey board.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Next wrap the kerbing arround the edges.

    [​IMG]

    Just got to do the buildings now..

    Paul
     
  3. Feb 24, 2016 #163
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    First class job Paul. Wrapping the kerb stones gives a good finish
     
  4. Feb 24, 2016 #164
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Started on the second area

    [​IMG]

    Pavement former made up, allowing road to be added for the curve.

    [​IMG]
    Then applied the pavemnt slabs from the platform kit, and the kerbs from the low relief shop fronts and small corner shops kits.

    [​IMG]

    Paul
     
  5. Feb 25, 2016 #165
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    The scene is beginning to unfold now Paul and it looks good. A couple of street lights maybe ?

    I like the cobble stones as I've said before. I have some from green scenes ( I think ) made from laser cut ply. I was thinking of trying them out on Highbridge.

    Keep it coming.

    Toto.
     
  6. Feb 26, 2016 #166
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Well progress ground to an expensive and time consumimng halt.

    Got one side of the 10ft perimeter wal covered then went to print another sheet of brick paper.

    [​IMG]

    Only for it to look washed out and blurry. Carried out a print check, to show the cyan was blurry smudged.
    Checked the print head to find a buildup of cyan ink. Cleaned the same, then the fun started, constant alignment check fails, followed HP's instructions, emptied out 3 colour cartridges - then had to go out this morning to buy more ink to carry on with the tests - I bought compatables, as the next step if it failed was to replace the heads, and yes it failed. So £90 for new printheads, and even then it doesn't guarentee a fix, or buy a new printer - new printer it was then.

    Ended up with another HP, however this one can print upto A3, and only £20 dearer than the new heads, go figure.

    New one prints lighter than the last so will now have to play with printer settings, or live with the difference - time will tell.

    Need to prep for the trip to glasgow.

    Paul
     
  7. Feb 26, 2016 #167
    Sparky

    Sparky Full Member

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    I had / have similar problems when changing cartridges. Different shades of brickwork on part completed models . One loses heart after having spent hours on the work so far.
    I am seriously considering a laser printer ,i think they are a bit cheaper than they were nowadays.
    The other problem i came up against , on spraying a fixative to protect the printed sheets from fading, if not sprayed evenly there is a difference in shading when dry.

    Just to add to the fun i make sure i stay with a particular spray brand and type ,as that too if used to spray a sheet can change the shade if not the same brand as previously used..

    Oh such fun.:whatever:
     
  8. Feb 26, 2016 #168
    mattc6911

    mattc6911

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    Not good Paul . . . hope you can marry up the colours ok :thumbs:
    cheers
     Matt
     
  9. Feb 26, 2016 #169
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    On the old printer (OfficeJet Pro 8500), the colour profiles were set by what paper type was selected. However as the only papertypes listed tended to be HP's own papers. !!

    Fortunately, I think I have enough test pieces and off cuts to complete the perimeter wall, after that it should be fresh start for new buildings, so hopefully will get away with it.

    Paul
     
  10. Feb 26, 2016 #170
    Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    My only advice for these printable kits/papers is to print off more than you need. I'm now trained in the habit of printing atleast three copies of the one kit, excluding the instructions. You just never know when you may bu@@er up a wall, window opening etc and need a replacement. I always use the same brand of inks as well (Canon for canon, HP for HP) as the 'ink formula' should be identical...

    You could look at the model in different light, there is one wall which cops the brunt of pollution and the other that is tucked away... ;)

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  11. Mar 10, 2016 #171
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Well it feels like ages since I did any work / posts on Vicky.

    And not much to report, I have at least made the wall, well most of it.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Butresses, lintel above the door and capping stones, plus maybe some broken glass on top !

    Paul
     
  12. Mar 11, 2016 #172
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Looking really good Paul. You can have the broken glass. It was allowed back then.:avatar:
     
  13. Mar 21, 2016 #173
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Sunny winters afternoon - well it wouldn't be during summer.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Paul
     
  14. Mar 21, 2016 #174
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I like the 27's. The Heljan version is bomb proof as well ....... a bit like the 33's ( and the flying 33's ) :avatar: I need some 8 pin decoders for mine. Better get on to Hattons.
    cheers
    Toto
     
  15. Mar 21, 2016 #175
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    The 26 was a fairly straight forward install, basically body off, pop the blanking plug, insert the decoder plug and test / program via JMRI.
    Once done and ok - lights etc working correctly, put the body back on.

    Paul
     
  16. Mar 21, 2016 #176
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I could not remember if they came with directional lighting. I thought not ...... Just these plastic inserts that fall out if you as much as cough on them.

    Now ...... The Bachmann class 25's ( or at least the latest versions ) they have em........ Bootiful.:avatar:

    Must have a swatch on Hattons.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  17. Mar 21, 2016 #177
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    My 26 has directional lighting - they are grain of wheat bulbs and not led's.
    When switched on they use 0.1A - thats more than some of my loco's running light.

    Paul
     
  18. Mar 22, 2016 #178
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    That's Heljan for you. :avatar:
     
  19. Mar 24, 2016 #179
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Just trying to upload from my phone

    [​IMG]

    Well that seemed to work

    This was via a Sony M4, clicked on browse from the gallery menu, then upload. Tap on the picture and the photo was loaded on to the post.

    Paul
     
  20. Mar 24, 2016 #180
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Looks fine Paul.
    great
    Toto
     
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